Retinol: what it does and how to use it

Retinol is vitamin A for cosmetics. It speeds up skin renewal, which softens fine lines and rough texture over months, but it often irritates at first and calls for daily sunscreen.

What it does

• Skin converts it, step by step, into retinoic acid – the form that acts on skin cells.
• Retinal (retinaldehyde) is one step closer to that form; retinyl palmitate is further away and gentler.
• Expect visible change after about 12 weeks of regular use.

Strength and rules

• EU: retinol and its esters are capped at 0.3% retinol equivalent in face and other products and 0.05% in body lotions (new products from 1 November 2025; all products from 1 May 2027).
• Korea: retinol at 2,500 IU/g and retinyl palmitate at 10,000 IU/g are listed wrinkle-improvement functional ingredients.

How to use it

• Start two or three nights a week and build up as your skin allows.
• Apply to dry skin, then moisturizer; use sunscreen every morning.
• Avoid using strong acids or benzoyl peroxide on the same night while your skin adjusts.

Who should be careful

• Dryness, flaking and stinging are common in the first weeks.
• Pregnancy: the EU medicines agency says prescription topical retinoids must not be used in pregnancy as a precaution, and many doctors extend that advice to retinol. Ask your doctor.

Sources

• Regulation (EU) 2024/996 summary (CosmeticOBS)
• Korean functional-cosmetic wrinkle ingredients (MFDS notice 2025-88, summary)
• EMA – Updated measures for pregnancy prevention during retinoid use (2018)

General information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition or are pregnant, ask your doctor.